After a shimmering and stylish Paris Men’s Fashion Week, it’s time to ensure your winter wardrobe is ready to go. This year, menswear continued in the direction of 2023 — that is, designers rejected the conventional separation between streetwear and formal looks. Instead, men’s fashion is increasingly creating shades of grey between suiting and streetwear. Louis Vuitton introduced the modern cowboy with lots of pure leather, warm colours, and long belts, while Dior presented men’s haute couture alongside ready-to-wear. For a fashion category that’s often defined by its subtleties — evolving materials and gradual changes to tailoring — this year was one of the boldest yet. From workwear-inspired silhouettes to reimagined winter knits, we’re willing to bet that these styles will last for seasons to come.
The Overcoat is Back
Overcoats, from Hermès to Fendi to Dior, had a front-row pass to Men’s Fashion Week, draping from models’ shoulders to knees. Elegant shiny blacks, refined heather-grey, and suave shades of charcoal effortlessly paired with ever en-vogue Chelsea boots and stylish chunky sneakers. Perhaps it’s the overcoat’s versatility that makes it a streetwear staple. Like other weather-dependent styles, overcoats have a functional purpose to serve — depending on the climate, they can quickly become a daily staple. So, like other functionality-first pieces, the best overcoats are durable, easy-to-wear, and readily adaptable to dress codes. Assess your apparel and footwear before making a purchase: if you’re a fan of graphic patterns and flashy kicks, neutral outerwear will let them shine. If your wardrobe has a permanent greyscale filter, though, it wouldn’t hurt to entertain a timeless shade like burgundy, navy, or plum.
While the Fashion Week looks aren’t yet available, there are still plenty of sleek overcoats you can buy now. If it’s insulation you’re after, look no further than the Voyage Coat by Hermès. 90% wool and 10% cashmere, the Voyage Coat has can withstand bone-chilling prairie winds and Atlantic Nor’easters alike. With a double-breasted design, fashionable notched collar, and back length of 120 cm (that’s just shy of four feet), the Voyage is smack-dab in centre of the ‘trendy vs. timeless’ Venn diagram. If you’re looking for something a tad… splashier, we’d suggest none other than Burberry’s Suede and Shearling Jacket. Made from Spanish lamb suede and shearling, the relaxed, hooded design hangs off the shoulders. Wear it open or roll up the cuffs to show off the vine-inspired pattern inside. Or, for a middle ground, find the certifiably versatile BOSS Hyde Checkered Overcoat. The slim-fit wool blend sports a classic mix of neutrals. Plus, it comes with a removable ‘bib’ in grey and brown, adding a layer of protection for extra-windy winter mornings.
Turtlenecks, Mocknecks, & High Collars
The 1970s have been back for a hot minute (and not just the inflation). As the Rolling Stone noted, there’s plenty of evidence for this in the entertainment industry; you’ll easily spot nostalgia in television series like Daisy Jones & the Six and Mrs. America, or disco-infused albums from Harry Styles and Dua Lipa — it wasn’t too long ago that Elton John himself was back in the top ten.
70s-style clothing surged in popularity alongside the recent Y2K trend; after all, the denim and diamonds style of the aughts was, arguably, a callback to the disco era. In menswear, this manifested as a rise in warm colours, bold patterns, and, of course, turtlenecks. But trends aside, we’d put our money on the staying power of the turtleneck. For one, it’s easy to pair with a jacket or blazer for a formal look, yet comfortable enough to wear with casual pants on a day off. On the racks, we’re looking at the refined grey palette and bold monogram pattern on the Louis Vuitton Cashmere Blend Turtleneck. Elsewhere, Prada’s Cashmere Turtleneck in Camel Brown cuts a classic figure. With ultra soft material and ribbed cuffs, it’s ideal for winter layering.
Of course, turtlenecks aren’t the only way to rock a high neck — Karl Lagerfeld, for all his faults, popularized the ‘high-and-tight’ collar for men’s formalwear. At last year’s Met Gala, SHARP cover alum Simu Liu captured the modern Lagerfeld collar with a futuristic formal look. It seems the legacy is living on: take a peek at this White Cotton Shirt from Fendi. The slim cut is effortlessly classic, while a contrasting print on the Italian-style collar keeps it fresh. Or, for a playful riff on the trend, check out this beautiful evening purple Knotted Collar Long Sleeve Shirt from Louis Vuitton. With purple buttons blending into the fabric, the spotlight is on the jagged cut of the lower hem.
Knitwear Hits It Big
It might be more technique than style, but there’s no denying that knitwear is everywhere this year. To be fair, the winter months — especially in Canada — have always lent themselves to knitwear; that said, the parallel ‘cottage-core’ and ‘quiet luxury’ trends of last year have had a ripple effect. Today, the men’s aisle is positively flooded with classic cable-knit sweaters and socks. For the discerning shopper, that means it’s easy to find cozy knitted clothes that fit your personal style, from cotton cardigans to oversized and patterned sweaters.
Made in Italy, the Malfilé Cotton English Rib Cardigan by Brunello Cucinelli embodies all we love about knitwear: it’s sophisticated without being restrictive or stuffy. Cotton threads build a comfortable and textured feel, while curved, shawl-style lapels elevate the cardigan from loungewear to elegant casual. Meanwhile, fans of prints and patterns will gladly find Gucci’s Square GG & Geometric Wool Sweater, which interpolates the classic interlocking ‘G’ logo into a cheeky retro-inspired pattern.
From the Runway: Androgynous Apparel
Asked for his take on the status of menswear after the Louis Vuitton Men’s show, Pharrell Williams told Vogue China: “I know on paper it’s menswear, but I just make clothes for humans.” It’s a simple enough statement, but in the often gender-segregated world of fashion, it’s radical. He later elaborated: “I learned that being over at Chanel — I used to wear things I thought I could wear, not because they were less effeminate, but if I thought I could wear it, I would wear it.”
Williams isn’t the only high-profile designer to walk the line between menswear and womenswear as of late. Sabato de Sarno, appointed Creative Director of Gucci in 2023, made a splash with his show at men’s fashion week earlier in the month. Intended to “mirror” de Sarno’s womenswear show, the collection featured low-cut, oversized tanks, leather gloves, and chunky necklaces alongside double-breasted suits and (of course) plenty of overcoats. Clean-cut silhouettes, paired with a fairly muted colour palette — beige, red, charcoal, and black were mainstays — de Sarno balanced masculine and feminine so naturally, it could’ve been an afterthought. Of course, this being fashion week, every collection has an intention: Gucci, with its clean and stylish unisex vision, normalized the controversial.
That said, this is only Fashion Week: a few months will pass before we can expect to find these daring silhouettes in stores. Nevertheless, some forward-thinking designers have already leaned into unisex clothing, launching single items and collections available now. Balenciaga, for instance, has a slew of genderless offerings — this pair of Bootcut Pants in Italian denim is one of our favourites — though you’ll find unisex sweaters, parkas, and caps in spades. Alternatively, take a look through Timberland’s All Gender Collection: signature logo tees, dual-toned scarves, and even Full-Zip Fleece Jackets are made for every figure.
Workwear-Inspired Overshirts & Cargo Pants
Last, but certainly not least: workwear is here to stay. From the runaways to the racks to the capsule releases in between, workwear has made its mark on contemporary clothing. At this year’s Louis Vuitton Fall-Winter show, Pharrell Williams drew a close link between contemporary menswear and Western-inspired dress; highlights included heavy jackets and Timberland-assisted work boots. Meanwhile, Kim Jones’ recent Dior Denim Capsule brought workwear-style shirts and jackets to the forefront.
Staple materials like heavy cotton, wool, and denim are ubiquitous; you’ll find them in silhouette-defining pieces like overshirts and cargo pants. Often, workwear-inspired clothing blends fashionable design with the genre’s function-forward material. A pair of Louis Vuitton Damier Wool Workwear Pants, for instance, interpret the classic Damier pattern in the context of workwear with heavy fabric and a loose fit. Balenciaga’s streetwear-ready Cargo Pants in Black, made from black Japanese denim, prove that durability and style can coexist. Elsewhere, workwear continues to inspire with the washed out, grey-gold print of Dior’s rugged Oblique Overshirt.