Sometimes I find myself thinking about the handful of men lurking in Substack’s Fashion & Beauty category. How do they feel? What do they think? Navigating this corner of the internet must be quite perplexing to someone used to occupying most positions of power in the real world: the algorithm barely acknowledges your existence and the dominant language includes highly technical terms like taffeta silk and capsule wardrobes. I imagine it being like in one of those light rom-coms you brain-rot to after work: you’re a handsome man who can’t commit and you wake up one day in a world where the women you underestimated are now sitting in the corner office. Empathy is considered an asset rather than a liability, and nobody cares about AI anymore (one can only dream).

From a woman’s perspective, Fashion Substack does feel easier, smoother, safer; a peaceful utopia that, coincidentally or not, happens to look a lot like a digital matriarchy. From a man’s perspective, let’s say we’re still in the adjustment phase— communication seems to oscillate between complete radio silence and the classic creepy-guy “looking good. happy to connect” comment, usually going unnoticed as a small glitch in the matrix.

Whenever women post about men’s fashion, it’s usually brief and half-hearted, like a small act of mercy from the powerful to the weak—there have been a few exceptions where the enthusiasm is there, though: Lindsay Sword’s Men’s Department, Tess Sullivan’s French workwear special, dressing like a teenage boy by Anna Newton, Adam Sandler made chic by Jennifer Cook, plus the occasional Jacob Elordi/Harry Styles eye candy.

The recent sports fever fueled by the World Cup and the NBA Finals would, at first glance, seem entirely incompatible with this matriarchal kingdom. And yet, a few years after the NBA relaxed its restrictive dress code, tunnel walks have become a legitimate source of menswear content, giving Substack royalty the perfect excuse to start adding Knicks stars to their Notes rotation: Tyler Kolek with his Margaux bag and if-you-know-you-know Dries Van Noten archival pieces, Jalen Brunson and his discreet LV mini bag, Landry Shamet looking chic as hell carrying a Loewe tote or Goyard pouch.

I don’t know whether the chicken came before the egg or vice versa, but the trend seems to have crossed the Atlantic: the French national football team—les Bleus, as the fans like to call them—now routinely arrive at their Clairefontaine training center in outfits that would have been unimaginable a few years ago: thoughtful, personal, and surprisingly fashion-literate, with enough styling ideas to inspire wardrobes well beyond the men’s section:

“It’s like years ago, when the NBA players were being more expressive with what they wear,” said Substack writer Daniel-Yaw Miller to The New York Times, already crowning the French team as the best-stressed of this World Cup. “These players hate to lose at everything they do,” added L’Etiquette editor Marc Beaugé. “They hate being the losers of the game, and they hate to be losers even in the fashion department.” Allez les Bleus!

Which brings us to the real subject of today’s piece.

The images of these French footballers in their chic outfits didn’t really surprise me. It was amusing to see it coming from the type of sportsmen more commonly associated with flashy designer labels and tacky tracksuits, but I’ve always had the impression that Parisian men have cracked the code of looking good—a particular mix of taste, confidence, and nonthreatening charm that seems to do much of the heavy lifting before a conversation has even begun:

And it’s not just about the Alain Delon-adjacent DNA that gives them that French heartthrob aura.

In the same way that women here respect the city’s reputation and rarely leave the house without dressing the part (my Paris Street Reports might have convinced you of that already), Parisian men seem to have understood that caring about clothes is not, in fact, a threat to one’s masculinity and, if done right, can only add to your allure.

To be fair, that’s not an easy feat. Menswear does come with a much narrower playground than womenswear, and putting together an outfit that feels distinctive requires a little more thought and creativity. Which is why the magic often lies in subtler strategies: playing with textures, proportions, silhouettes, and fabric quality, the kind of details that can only come through when you genuinely appreciate clothes and the general art of getting dressed.

This can all be so subtle that even after years in Paris, I still find it difficult to put my finger on what exactly makes Parisian menswear work. With Father’s Day coming up, I decided it was finally time to demystify the Parisian man, dads and non-dads alike. As you’ll see, sometimes the secret is in the clothes. But other times, a French accent and a book tucked under the arm might be enough to do the trick:

And as a fun little bonus, I asked six Parisian men from my entourage about the brands they actually wear, which can turn out to be quite helpful when looking for gift ideas with a Parisian man’s stamp of approval. I also learned the term BCBG (“Bon Chic, Bon Genre”), a French shorthand for a polished, bourgeois, preppy aesthetic (think Neuilly or the 16th arrondissement)—except that among younger, more fashion-conscious Parisians, it can come with a slight eye roll.

Send this to your dad, your boyfriend, or file it away as future style (or husband) inspo.

On y va!

Les Hauts (The Tops)

La Chemise Bleue

We’re taking inspiration from Les Bleus, and I couldn’t have started anywhere else but with la chemise bleue. Parisian men have a particular love for timeless wardrobe staples, and the blue shirt might just be the MVP of the rotation. Of course, forget about the finance bro version, tightly tucked into beige chinos that would be better suited for a LinkedIn announcement with a rocket emoji in the caption. As will be the case for many items in this report, the secret is all in the proportions: relaxed, slightly oversized, sleeves casually rolled up or left loose, paired with roomier tailored pants that make you look like you know exactly what you’re doing.

Especially in summer, the sleeves get shorter and the fabrics become lighter—but the golden rule remains unchanged: it’s all about the flowy proportions:

Le bleu de travail

An item that is distinctly French, and one that almost every French man seems to have inherited from his grandfather’s wardrobe. Literally translating to “the blue workwear”, le bleu de travail was originally a durable uniform worn by workers, mechanics, and craftsmen. But over the years, French thirty-somethings have reclaimed their grandfathers’ jackets and turned them into a menswear staple. Some French intellectuals might raise an eyebrow at the idea of bourgeois Parisians turning working-class clothing into a fashion statement, but clearly, it hasn’t stopped anyone from wearing it:

Apart from the classic blues, shirts in softer and more unexpected hues are not something Parisian men shy away from. Here’s your proof that a man can absolutely make a pink shirt work: indigo jeans, your trusted pair of boots, and a little French guy aura (the messy hair sometimes helps) and you’re good to go:

Le vintage

Without the endless variety of silhouettes and styling options that women’s wardrobes offer, men have fewer places to experiment. A vintage T-shirt picked up from a thrift shop is one of the few pieces that lets a Parisian man safely play around and add a bit more personality to the conversation. Whether it’s an old concert tee, a faded cartoon logo, or his neighborhood’s name (go Belleville!), the right vintage T-shirt can add a dose of character to a man’s outfit and reveal some very niche interests you may or may not have wanted to know about.

Patterned vintage shirts are clearly another favorite, especially in summer, often worn over plain tanks or T-shirts to bring a little more color and movement to an outfit:

If I’m noticing one thing throughout this report, it’s that French menswear is all about the right fit. Change the drape, adjust the proportions, play with the volume and the entire outfit will feel different. Having fewer pieces to work with is definitely not an excuse to be boring, and the smallest styling choices become the ones that make the difference. A double collar, a slightly oversized silhouette, an unexpected tuck—sometimes it’s the tiniest adjustment that changes everything:

Le sleeveless tank top

A piece I would normally prefer to see tucked away in a gym bag, but with the right proportions and just the right amount of French-guy nonchalance, I might accept it. It’s usually accompanied by a well-built arm, a silver chain and a curated collection of cool-guy tattoos:

What Parisian men actually wear: tops

• Jacques, 30 years old: “With very few exceptions, all my T-shirts are plain Muji ones, slightly thick and in solid colors. My shirts all come from thrift stores or from my grandparents.”
• François-Xavier, 32 years old: “Among the brands I buy directly from, I wore Asphalte for a long time, and today I still like Bronson Mfg. It’s more or less the same style: simple, durable T-shirts. For more interesting tops or shirts, it’s either a thrift-store find or Vinted for oversized, colorful pieces. Otherwise, I’ve inherited many pieces from my grandfather.”
• Antoine, 32 years old: “For shirts and T-shirts, I mostly shop second-hand. I like oversized fits and skater-inspired shirt styles.”
• Ulysse, 32 years old: “Drapeau noir, Brut (editor’s note: a great shop in the Marais where you’ll often spot chic men carrying their bags), Percival”
• Cyrille, 36 years old: “Asphalte for everyday basics. The cuts are great, it’s French, B Corp, based on pre-orders, reasonably priced, and made to last. Simple products, but with a focus on the perfect cut and minimalist design.”
• Alain, 71 years old: “In general I go to Le Bon Marché. Like most boomers, I like English clothes but Italian ones too. I used to buy shirts at Brooks Brothers on Rue Saint-Honoré, but unfortunately most of these shops have disappeared. And when you order online, the quality is really not the same anymore. For coats and trenches it’s mostly YSL Rive Gauche and Burberry.”

Les Pantalons

You’ll definitely see plenty of tailored trousers and jeans throughout this report. Many come from skater-culture staples: Vans, LOTS of Carhartt, Dickies, Levi’s of course, and a few other brands that you’ll find recommended by my Parisian friends at the end of this section.

But beyond this traditional menswear rotation, I’ve been noticing a lot of khaki trousers and cargo pants—again, worn in the right proportions that steer them away from the LinkedIn-poster child uniform:

I especially loved the play between these different neutrals on this next Parisian man right here, with the cigarette dangling from his lips like in a still from a Godard movie. You’d normally expect a black or white top underneath, but the navy adds that extra layer of stylistic awareness I often associate with French guys:

Another way to vamp up your khaki trousers: chunky shoes, a silver chain, and an analog camera slung over the shoulder, which feels less like a practical tool and more like a styling element that brings the whole outfit together:

After photographing enough looks, one pattern became impossible to ignore: French men love bermuda shorts. They come in every possible iteration—longer khaki versions, shorter dark denim pairs, patterned styles, classic sports shorts, and even taffeta versions (the only time I spotted this trend outside the Substack circle). The instinctive styling formula seems to be athletic high socks paired with trainers or loafers for a more classic look:

What Parisian men actually wear: pants

• Jacques: “I have two Noyoco pairs (one thick for winter, one lighter for summer), two second-hand Levi’s jeans, and two corduroy trousers (American Vintage and Carhartt). My favorite brand used to be Noyoco, but I’m starting to find it too expensive and the quality isn’t what it used to be. My style is also moving towards something less ‘clean’ and less BCBG, whereas Noyoco is very much that.”
• François-Xavier: “I buy almost everything second-hand or on Vinted. For jeans and simple, durable pieces, I like Bronson Mfg. I’ll probably keep looking there.”
• Antoine: “For trousers: lots of Levi’s jeans, otherwise skater-style trousers (Vans chinos, corduroy…)”
• Ulysse: “Mainly thrifted or bought on Vinted, vintage Levi’s (made in the US or Europe), Japanese selvedge denim brands like TCB Jeans, and various vintage finds, often in natural fabrics.”
• Cyrille: “Levi’s 501, classic, timeless, I have them in multiple shades.”
• Alain: “I used to buy my trousers at Cerruti on Rue Royale and Hilditch & Key on Rue de Rivoli, and my chinos at Brooks Brothers on Rue Saint-Honoré, but unfortunately all these shops have disappeared.”

Les Chaussures (The Shoes)

This one was really not hard to narrow down. There was a clear MVP in this category and that is:

Le Paraboot

I don’t know if the rest of the world has gotten the memo yet, but Parisian men have a serious attachment to this specific Paraboot model. It’s made in France and the quality and craftsmanship are obviously part of the appeal, but I think the real reason it has become so popular is its versatility: it can move between completely different style worlds without ever feeling out of place: BCBG looks, casual outfits, and even skater-inspired silhouettes all find a way to incorporate the Michael Paraboot without it feeling forced or out of place:

Les bottes

Then we have the more classic boot category. If you’re looking for the French cool-boy/heartthrob archetype, it won’t be rare to spot one wearing long jeans with cowboy boots, like in the first look. Then there’s the classic Chelsea boot silhouette, the one most likely to be spotted with a copy of Proust’s In Search of Lost Time on a busy Parisian terrace:

Les mocassins

As was the case in my women’s shoe report, we can’t talk about Parisian style without mentioning loafers. You’ll often see them paired with black or white socks, with the latter bringing a little May ’68 revolutionary nostalgia back into the mix:

I’ve also been spotting loafers paired with socks in bolder colors, like that infamous pop of red—another very convincing way to spice up your khaki pants, if you ask me:

You can also go full camp; leaning into a modernized Italian mafia aesthetic with a pair of flashy Gucci loafers and just enough pattern/color clash to make the whole thing feel deliberately over-the-top:

Les sandales / Birkenstocks

Who said a French man can’t show a toe? Whether it’s a grocery run, a bike ride with your kids, or an emergency coffee stop on a sun-drenched terrace, Tevas, Birks, and double-strap sandals can definitely be part of a man’s summer shoe rotation:

We also have a few other shoe contenders worth mentioning: the Reebok Club C trend that created quite a stir (although it seems to have calmed down now), some coveted Jordan sneakers that will still have men lining up outside stores on release day, these Gardana Hemp clogs, the Lemaire derbies, and the Keen sneakers I’ve been increasingly spotting on the more alternative types.

What Parisian men actually wear: shoes

• Jacques: “I have one pair of Dr. Martens, two pairs of Karhu, two pairs of second-hand Converse, two pairs of Camper, and some Birkenstocks.”
• François-Xavier: “I mostly wear Nike and Adidas. I’d also recommend Spring Court and Dr. Martens.”
• Antoine: “Adidas, Reebok, and Dr. Martens.”
• Ulysse: “Max Sauveur, Tricker’s, Bonnegueule.”
• Cyrille: “Paraboot: a French brand, nice leather, made to last a lifetime. They repair them for free.”
• Alain: “My J.M. Weston shoes that last 15 years.”

Les sacs & accessoires

Okay, there is definitely still a type of man who will refuse with all his might to ever carry a bag, which makes him: 1. a very annoying companion to his partner, and 2. someone who seems to have no idea what to do with his hands:

Quite surprisingly, that is definitely not the rule here—Parisian men are not afraid to carry a bag and quite often, a very good-looking one:

There was a moment when my boyfriend and his friends collectively decided that the solution to all their problems was buying a Hindbag—that particular mania seems to have calmed down a little, but banana bags are definitely still around, especially the classic Uniqlo ones:

You’ll also see baggier shoulder options—and I have to salute the color blocking here:

What surprised me the most though was seeing the Sézane Gary tote, a French-girl classic, repurposed over a man’s shoulder. Worn crossbody, it really takes on a slightly more masculine edge:

The Sézane tote also seems particularly popular among French dads, who happily carry the different floral versions without a second thought:

My personal favorite has to be this Call It By Your Name tote—it has definitely made the rounds online and here on Substack (hi Kelly Williams), but I would have never expected it to look this good on a man. This specific brown/beige color combination looks so chic against his crisp white top, navy bottoms, and blue sneakers:

Perhaps even more surprisingly, the classic L.L.Bean / Trader Joe’s-style tote has also made its way to Paris and onto men’s shoulders and it seems to work with absolutely everything: with cargo pants, with jeans, even with a full-on suit—and I’m only now realizing that a canvas tote might actually be the perfect men’s gift idea I’ve been looking for all along.

When it comes to other accessories, Parisian men are big fans of jewelry (especially silver rings and bracelets), baseball caps (whether thrifted or picked up as merch from a favorite café/restaurant/boutique), the occasional scarf worn on the head or even tied around the pants if you spend enough time in the Marais and, of course, the classic sweatshirt draped over the shoulders.

What Parisian men actually wear: bags & accessories

• Jacques: “My jewelry mostly comes from Ombre Claire and most of my rings come from the jewelry shops in the Marais, rue de Fourcy.”
• François-Xavier: “For jewelry, Gudule all the way. I’ve been going there since high school. I also have a Mero Mero roll top backpack.”
• Antoine: “Gudule, Hindbag banana bag, Carhartt backpack.”
• Ulysse: “Max Sauveur for belts, Mackie for beanies, and Orient for watches. For jewelry itself, I don’t really have a specific brand—mostly gifts from my grandmother or old pieces found on Etsy.”
• Cyrille: “A Tuareg ring from Nigeria.”
• Alain: “A tote bag from Brooks Brothers or a Longchamp shoulder bag with a zip closure.”

Et voilà, that’s all for today! Send this to your boyfriend, brother, or dad for some rare on-the-ground style inspo—and who knows, maybe you’ll even find a last-minute Father’s Day gift idea along the way ✨

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Bisous and see you on Friday!
Frosso