30 Years Of Handbags

Balenciaga, Louis Vuitton, Dior, Fendi and Luar Bags perched on museum-like columns

From the Archives: 30 Years of It Bags

From the minimal ’90s to the Y2K era and beyond, these are the era-defining purses of the past 30 years.

In the museum of fashion history that lives in my head, there’s a hall of It Bags. Right between the stiletto staircase and the Elsa Peretti reflecting pool, a long sunlit corridor of purses stands mounted on pedestals, their hardware catching rays as onlookers gaze at their majesty.

Like artifacts from bygone eras and treasures of the ancient world, purses tell a story about the time and culture in which they were carried. If Nefertiti’s gold and Corinthian pottery are symbols of style and status, so too are the It Bags we buy. Take the Fendi Baguette. “The Baguette puts a spell on you; it’s an alchemical bag, an addiction,” says Silvia Venturini Fendi of her most famous design. And remember how impossible it was to get your hands on a Telfar Shopping Bag in 2019? Certain bags also have the ability to transport you back to a moment in time. It’s hard to forget the summer of the Cult Gaia Ark if you were on the wedding circuit. And one look at paparazzi photo of a celeb with a PS1 hooked over an elbow and it’s 2008 all over again.

White Bottega Veneta bag perched next to columns, alongside Loewe green and black puzzle bag

Bottega Jodie and Loewe Puzzle, via Vestiaire Collective.Tina DiRosa

There’s a contradictory streak to handbags that contributes to their allure: it’s both an exclusive and democratic category. Dizzying prices and endless waitlists aside, purses fit all bodies. They hide secrets, gifts, and lipstick stains—and best of all, they hold their value despite the cost. Buying a Dior Saddle bag or a limited edition Murakami Pouchette Bag might be less of a depreciating asset than a Toyota Camry. Even newer styles like the Loewe Puzzle have secondhand interest. According to the luxury resaler Vestiaire Collective, the Fendi Baguette Bag has tripled in value since 2018.

“The It bag must break codes, must be sensational, and can be endlessly available in several materials or colors, for example, the City by Balenciaga,” says Sophie Hersan, the Co-Founder and Fashion Director of Vestiaire Collective. “It’s all about standing out, like the Murakami from Louis Vuitton.” And as demand for archival It Bags took off in the pre-loved market, the European luxury houses began to dip into their archive to reissue beloved styles, notes Hersan. Today, American designers are reviving their most iconic styles, too, with reissues of the Marc Jacobs Stam Bag and Kate Spade Sam Bag, both launching within the last two years.

To celebrate the enduring appeal of the It Bag—and 30 Years of InStyle—we’ve compiled the best of the best. Read on for the 30 most iconic bags of the past 30 years.

Kate Spade 1994 Handbag
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1994 – Kate Spade Sam Bag

Kate Spade fashioned her first bag design out of construction paper in her apartment. It would eventually become her iconic Sam Bag, which debuted in 1993.

Deceptively simple and charmingly boxy, the Sam Bag took off with the New York fashion set thanks to its clean lines and no-nonsense design. A photo of ‘90s Gwyneth Paltrow carrying a striped version at the airport (you’ve definitely scrolled past this shot on Instagram) speaks to its staying power: The Sam Bag fits seamlessly into the daily lives of the women who love it.

“It truly sparked an accessories revolution,” says  Jennifer Lyu, SVP and Head of Design at Kate Spade New York of its appeal. Today, the style is still going strong. In 2023, the company brought back Kate Spade’s first It Bag from their archive, this time with a 100-percent recycled nylon shell—“a first for the brand,” according to Lyu.

The It Factor: One final design flourish—affixing a fabric Kate Space tag to the outside, rather than the inside of the bag—proved to be the Sam Bag’s signature. This cheeky inversion remains an emblem of Kate Spade’s humor and subversive design philosophy.

Dior 1995 Handbag
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1995 – Lady Dior Bag

In September 1995, Dior offered Princess Diana a new handbag design to wear during her visit to Paris for the opening of the Paul Cézanne retrospective at the Grand Palais. Carried on the arm of the People’s Princess on a tour of the couturier’s home city, the purse’s fate was forever sealed: It was named Lady Dior.

Princess Diana wearing Lady Dior bag
Getty Images/ InStyle

Even without the Princess Diana of it all, Lady Dior was destined for It Bag greatness. Endowed with the brand’s Cannage motif and rounded handles, the design strikes a striking balance with its prim and proper shape and architectural details. Now, the style plays with prints, embroidery, and macramé, the design signatures of Creative Director Maria Grazia Chuiri who has iterated many times on the Lady Dior since her appointment in 2016.

The It Factor: The bag’s d.i.o.r. charms lend a playful youthfulness to Lady Dior’s elegant and timeless design.

Prada 1996 Handbag
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1996 – Prada’s Re-Edition Bag

When done right, minimalism is never boring. No one knew this better than Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy.

In 1996, Bessette-Kennedy fashion fervor was at an all-time high, as speculation around her private Georgia wedding to JFK Jr. captured the public imagination. Her signature carry-all was no exception. With precise angles and restrained hardware, the streamlined Miuccia Prada-designed bag became a symbol of ‘90s minimalism.

Carolyn Bessett Kennedy wearing black sweater and tan pencil skirt
Getty Images/ InStyle

These personal style signatures—from the sleek slip dress to the humble headband—continue to capture the zeitgeist even decades after Bessette-Kennedy’s untimely death. And even Prada’s Re-Edition 1995 version of her purse has re-emerged as a fashion darling.

The It Factor: A glossy finish, courtesy of the finest brushed leather, lends the bag a quiet air of luxury—much like the icon who popularized it herself.

Fendi 1997 Handbag
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1997 – Fendi Baguette

When Silvia Venturini Fendi came up with her most famous bag design, the stars aligned: “The horoscope said it was a FENDI day.”

Inspired by the intoxicating chic of a French woman carrying a baguette under her arm fresh from the boulangerie, Fendi forever changed fashion with the Baguette Bag design in 1997. “The Baguette had a unique journey first of all, being born during the period of minimalism, nylon backpacks, black clothes, uniforms,” Venturini Fendi explains. “This purse was the exact opposite. It represented an alternative to the strictness of this period.” In other words, the designer took a sharp right turn when everyone else was veering left off a cliff, flinging herself and the industry into the great unknown of the maximalist Y2K era.

Sarah Jessica Parker as "Carrie Bradshaw" wearing a Fendi baguette bag
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The Baguette acted as a blank canvas for Fendi to go wild. With its short strap (intentionally designed with the softest possible material), the bag is carried nestled, protected almost, under the arm like a talisman to shield its wearer against the cruel world.

“We made thousands of versions of the Baguette,” says the designer, adding, “maybe even more—from sporty to beaded ones, to knitted cashmere versions. It was the first purse to be treated as a garment: denim, velvet, plastic, shearling… The Baguette is good for 24 hours, whatever the setting.”

The It Factor: Uttered by the greatest fictional accessory aficionado, Carry Bradshaw, this Sex and the City line puts it best: “It’s not a bag, it’s a baguette!”

Gucci 1998 Handbag
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1998 – Gucci Diana

In the ‘90s, if Princess Di wore it, the world followed suit. And just like puffed sleeves and statement sweaters, her favorite Gucci bag quickly became one of the It Bags of the decade—and now bears her name.

Featuring the House’s signature bamboo handle, the tote-style bag holds more than its demure details would have you believe. It’s a practical purse—one capable of carrying essentials plus a few extras—that looks anything but. In the years since its heyday, the brand has added detachable straps, customizable charms, and a host of colorways (including Diana-worthy neutrals) and sizes to the design to double down on its versatility.

The It Factor: This photo alone should convince you. The People’s Princess, keys in mouth, Gucci Diana in hand, enters her car in bike shorts and a sweatshirt, exuding a casual elegance that’s often imitated but rarely replicated.

Judith Leiber 1999 Handbag
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1999 – Judith Leiber Swan Clutch

Arguably the first novelty bag to take the world by storm, Judith Leiber’s whimsical, immediately recognizable designs paved the way for quirked-up bag-as-object designs. Perhaps none is more famous than the Swan Clutch carried by Sarah Jessica Parker in season two of Sex and the City.

A gift from Mr. Big, the clutch comes to represent all that’s wrong with Carrie Bradshaw’s relationship, and she forms a complicated relationship with her bedazzled swan. That said, Carrie undoubtedly has a thing for birds (and novelty fashion items): The SATC writers’ constant callbacks to the iconic TV moment have cemented this purse as a pop culture accessory icon in the years since. And today, novelty purses abound, taking over fashion weeks and runways with aplomb. Clearly, Ms. Leiber was onto something.

The It Factor: A bedazzled Judith Leiber clutch is the ultimate conversation starter. And if you can get your hands on one of her original swan designs, SATC fans will flock to you like birds to a feeder.

Dior 2000 Handbag
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2000 – Dior Saddle Bag

Few bags are as recognizable as the Dior Saddle. Dreamed up by John Galliano in an equestrian frenzy, the purse mimics the shape of a horse’s saddle. It was an inspired nod to stable style, and a flap and hanging “D” stirrup complete the horsegirl fantasy. This unusual mix spurred this asymmetrical purse to become an unconventional icon of the 2000s and a universal symbol of confidence and individuality.

Years later, an updated take on the Saddle debuted as part of Dior’s Fall/Winter 2019 collection, introducing the bag to a whole new generation. Whether carrying the ‘90s denim original or the internet-famous logo patterned Saddle of the 2020s, the girls that get it continue to get it—regardless of the year they were born.

The It Factor: The Dior Saddle proves its intergenerational appeal as TikTok’s favorite shoulder bag more than 20 years after its release.

Balenciaga 2001 Handbag
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2001 – Balenciaga City Bag

Like many an It Bag, Balenciaga’s City Bag turned the accessories world on its head. Sporting a slouchy silhouette, worn-in leather, and nary a logo in sight, the style bucked the prevailing trends of its time when it was released in 2001. Next to Y2K technicolor and rhinestone-encrusted Sidekicks, the City looked calm, cool, and collected.

Its motorcycle-inspired silver hardware and a liberal sprinkling of studs quite literally stood out from the crowd, winning over fashion darlings like Kate Moss and Nicole Richie in the months after its release. Created by Balenciaga’s then-creative director Nicolas Ghesquière, the design was ahead of its time and paved the way for the Indie Sleaze styles that would dominate the second half of the decade.

The It Factor: With its natural edge and devil-may-care spirit, this bag looks cool with a little time, age, and wear under its buckle. Beat-up is almost better when it comes to the Balenciaga City.

Coach 2002 Handbag
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2002 – Coach Wristlet

If memories of tween trips to the mall and flip phones are rushing back to you, just know you’re not alone. Synonymous with other prep stalwarts like the Lacoste polo and Abercrombie jeans, the Coach Wristlet has come to represent an indelible moment in youth culture. Chances are that if you were born between 1985 and 1995, this cute little wrist adornment made an appearance on your birthday wishlist long before you ever heard the word “millennial.”And just in time for the Y2K revival, it’s back.

It seems the beloved teen It Bag is ready to win a new cohort of fans: Coach released a fresh take on the brown, monogrammed accessory we all know and love in February 2023. And if the brand’s track record with Gen Z is any indication, a wristlet revival is on the horizon.

The It Factor: Compact and cutesy, the Coach Wristlet turns the essentials (keys, wallet, purse) into a hands-free accessory that’s part bracelet, part wallet, all It Bag.

Bottega Jodie, Fendi Baguette, and Longchamp Le Pliage via Vestiaire Collective.Tina DiRosa

Louis Vuitton Pouchette
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2003 – Louis Vuitton x Murakami Pouchette

In a stroke of genius, creative director Marc Jacobs tapped Takashi Murakami to redesign the iconic LV monogram in 2003. The Japanese artist’s brainchild—a rainbow-and-white-hued take on the pattern—was an instant hit.

Covering storied heritage bags, like the Speedy and Pouchette styles, with a deeply unserious color palette and cheeky spin on classic branding, embodies the shared high-low aesthetic of both artist and creative director. Cherry blossoms and LV camouflage collaborations followed, but it’s impossible to top the original in terms of cultural impact.

The It Factor: With shades of turquoise, hot pink, and kelly green, the Louis Vuitton x Murakami collection defined the color trends and visual language of an era.

Mulberry 2004 Handbag
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2004 – Mulberry Bayswater

As the McBling trappings of the early naughts started to lose their luster, a new handbag style star emerged—this time on the cobblestone streets of London. Chic, sleek, and big enough to hold a sensible pair of flats or a just-in-case umbrella, the Mulberry Bayswater was the bag on everyone’s elbow in 2003. Named after the titular West London neighborhood, Design Director Nicolas Knightly’s creation captured the essence of quiet luxury long before it was a social media trend.

Carried by the best-dressed Brits, from Alexa Chung to Kate Moss, the unforgettable style has endured for over two decades thanks to its understated elegance. With a Mulberry Bayswater, you have an heirloom in the making—and a classic purse that only gets better with time.

The It Factor: Beloved by both Blair Waldorf and Serena Van Der Woodson, the Mulberry Bayswater has the ultimate Upper East Sider stamp of approval, thanks to several fashionable Gossip Girl cameos.

Marc Jacobs 2005 Handbag
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2005 – Marc Jacobs Stam Bag

As the flared pants got wider and the headbands got thicker, the bags of the mid-2000s got bigger. Case in point: Marc Jacobs’s Stam Bag. A cult classic (see its 2023 relaunch campaign starring Selma Blair, Ashanti, and others channeling that 2005 magic), the original Stam Bag brings together all the quintessential design codes of the era.

Larger than life size? Check. Quilted leather? Double check. A chain handle so oversized that it borders on caricature? Here’s a check… made out to Marc Jacobs.

Lindsay Lohan pictured wearing sweater and jeans
Getty Images/ InStyle

The It Factor: Lindsay Lohan carrying the Stam Bag while wearing a thick headband, jeans tucked into riding boots, and a puffed-sleeved peacoat is an outfit so emblematic of this fashion period that it’s seared into my brain forever.

Chloe 2006 Handbag
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2006 – Chloe Paddington Bag

Phoebe Philo has quite a few fashion signatures—the rise of the Adidas Stan Smith, hair tucked into turtlenecks, and Joan Didion as fashion icon, to name a few. However, none outshine her knack for designing It bags—case in point: the Chloe Paddington Bag.

Released in 2006, the Chloe Paddington quickly became the stuff of myth and lore. Legend has it the design was so sought after that shoppers staked their claim to every Paddington available after its runway debut—before it even hit store shelves. In the era of back-in-stock alerts, this may sound like standard fare, but before the internet made ordering an expertly crafted leather handbag as easy as a tap of the thumb, shoppers across the globe had to stalk sales associates, begging store managers and calling in favors to get their hands on this luggage-inspired purse and its trademark padlock.

The It Factor: The Paddington was the ultimate expression of Boho chic, and as Chemena Kamali works her boho magic at Chloe, it’s more relevant than ever.

Vera Bradley 2007 Handbag
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2007 – Vera Bradley Quilted Tote

In the second half of the 2000s, when Dan Humphreys dominated the discourse and collars were at their most popped, Vera Bradley’s iconic tote bag reigned supreme. A capacious carry-all for everything from weekends away to volleyball practice, the Original Tote, originally designed in 1990, captured the jaunty spirit of prep with its soft quilted cotton, sporty versatility, and penchant for paisleys.

In 2024, the brand is doubling down on its original promise of retro charm with new shapes and twists on its most recognizable designs—and, of course, adorably busy patterns are still in the picture.

The It Factor: Taylor Swift and Zooey Deschanel have both been recently spotted carrying their Vera favorites. Watch this space.

Proenza Schouler 2008 Handbag
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2008 – Proenza PS1

New York designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough captured the oversized and effortless chic of the late 2000s with the PS1 Bag. Lacking flashy hardware and in-your-face branding, the purse lent an intentionally undone quality to any look, making it a fixture amongst the in-the-know fashion set whose photos made the rounds on Tumblr.

It’s a luxurious design—the python version was a favorite of Mary-Kate Olsen—that doesn’t try too hard to convince you of its cool factor. Plus, the PS1’s messenger bag shape felt like a fresh, fun alternative to the stuffier designer fare available at the time.

The It Factor: This durable, oversized carry-all embodies the golden era of indie sleaze in downtown New York.

Alexander McQueen 2009 Handbag
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2009 – Alexander McQueen Skull Clutch

The legacy of Alexander McQueen is as expansive as it is original. Often referred to as the designer of his generation, he left behind not just a brand bearing his name but an entire visual world when he passed away in 2010.

The Skull Clutch is quintessential McQueen. Imaginative, avant-garde, and just a touch unsettling, the Box-shaped clutch with its signature four-finger handle evokes all his greatest hits. Only a creative visionary like McQueen could pull off putting a Guy Richie movie gangster-worthy brass knuckle on an opulent clutch worth thousands and make it the go-to for anyone who likes their Black-tie bags to have an edge.

The It Factor: Wearing your purse on your knuckles is not for the faint of heart, but for those who dare, it makes a powerful statement that you are not to be messed with and have impeccable taste.

Issey Miyake 2010 Handbag
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2010 – Issey Miyake The Bao Bao

Geometric, shape-shifting, and logo-free, this It Bag fully embodies Issey Miyake’s fundamental concept of “a piece of cloth.” Made of non-conventional materials—including mesh and PVC—this piece moves like fabric, bends like leather, and folds like a pleated skirt. Quite fitting for a Miyake creation, don’t you think?

With no branding, no hardware, and no shape, the Bao Bao looked more like a message from the future than a traditional purse, but shoppers in 2010 were ready. It was the start of a new decade and the dawn of the digital age. The style took off like a rocket ship upon its release, winning over Miyake fans and newcomers alike with its triangular pattern and unique structure.

The It Factor: This bag is so forward-thinking that it orbits rather than follows the trend cycle. When you’re ahead of your time, it takes a while for the world to catch up.

Celine 2011 Handbag
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2011 – Celine Phantom

There’s a reason @oldceline has a cult following. In her tenure as creative director, Phoebe Philo delivered on what women really want from their clothes, shoes, and, of course, bags. And there’s no better example than the Celine Phantom.

Along with its sister style, the Celine Luggage Purse, the Phantom took the 2010s by storm. Spotted by those in the know for its striking top handle and zipper, the bag’s outward-facing “wings” are what really placed this style in the minds of fashion insiders. There was just so much room in the Phantom. Despite its très chic appearance, you could conceivably live out of this bag. Go anywhere, hold anything, and look good doing it. This purse was the ultimate in everyday luxury.

Gwyneth Paltrow wearing white outfit with blue handbag
Getty Images/ InStyle

The It Factor: It comes in a striking, unforgettable shade of Matisse Blue.

Longchamp 2012 Handbag
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2012 – Longchamp Le Pilage

Though it’s having a bit of a renaissance at the moment, the Longchamp Le Pliage dominated the early 2010s. It was the go-to for celebs and high schoolers (like yours truly) alike, and through its pure ubiquity, became the default It Bag of the era.

It’s the purse you grab when decision fatigue sets in, but you still want to look put together. It matches everything (Le Pliage comes in every imaginable color), holds a ton, and is more durable than almost anything else on the market. Unsurprisingly, the design was inspired by origami, the Japanese art of paper folding, because it fits everywhere, too.

The It Factor: It’s approved by royalty. Both the Princess of Wales Kate Middleton and the Duchess of Sussex Meghan Markle have carried it.

Mansur Gavriel 2013 Handbag
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2013 – Mansur Gavriel Bucket Bag

In 2013, Mansur Gavriel had fashion girls everywhere in its thrall. Founded by Rachel Mansur and Floriana Gavriel, the brand was relatively unknown until its sumptuous, envy-inducing Bucket Bag made the world take notice.

This bag is all about texture. The design team combined a sumptuous exterior made from bonded vegetable-tanned leather with matte interior patent leather for an eye-catching contrast that looked (and felt) like nothing else in the market. Add the gorgeous pop of color from its red interior, and you have a purse destined for It Bag greatness.

The It Factor: The bucket bag’s adjustable cross-body strap started a hands-free bag revolution.

Saint Laurent 2014 Handbag
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2014 – Saint Laurent Sac De Jour

If you’re going for understated glamour (as many of us are), it doesn’t get better than Saint Laurent’s Sac De Jour.

Debuting under a Hedi Slimane-led Saint Laurent in 2013, the design perfects the traditional day bag with carefully considered details. Expandable panels give this It Bag an air of practicality, while a padlock and interior keychain add a touch of charm. This is the peak of traditionalism and restraint—and pairs especially well with giant sunglasses.

The It Factor: It’s an “if you know, you know” bag. To the untrained eye, it may pass by unnoticed, but for those who pay attention, its craftsmanship and meticulous design will draw notice.

Loewe 2015 Handbag
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2015 – Loewe Puzzle Bag

When Loewe’s Puzzle Bag finally arrived in stores in early 2015, it felt like the dawn of a new era. “I set out to find a new way of building a bag, fundamentally questioning its structure,” said Loewe Creative Director Jonathan Anderson in 2015. “It was about deconstructing a conventional bag to create a flat object with a tridimensional function.”

Deconstruct, he did. The bag’s cuboid shape and precise lines broke down everything everyone thought they knew about purses and built it back up again.

The Puzzle bag’s appeal lies in its appearance of simplicity, notwithstanding the actuality of an incredibly complex construction process. Meticulous craftsmanship is required to give the bag’s side-by-side panels, painted edges, and channel seams an untouched appearance, as if it were brought to life fully formed.

The It Factor: Mystery, intrigue, drama! The Puzzle Bag will have onlookers questioning everything, followed by whispers of “Who is she?”

Gucci 2016 Handbag
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2016 – Gucci Marmont

The distinctive Double G logo is hard to miss. First introduced in the 1970s, Creative Director Alessandro Michele perfected the Marmont Bag for Gucci’s Fall 2016 collection. With its larger-than-life logo detailing and chevron design, the Marmont lives rent-free in almost every fashion head’s head.

You can’t escape it, you can’t miss it, and you should definitely join it. Because this purse is still going strong almost a decade after its original re-release, showing up in every city in many forms. The classic red Marmont is a fan favorite, but colorways like white, black, and tan make this a forever style.

The It Factor: The size, shape, and delicate chain strap make this hands-down the quintessential “going out” bag.

Cult Gaia 2017 Handbag
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2017 – Cult Gaia

At first glance, Cult Gaia’s Ark Bag is more like a sculpture than a carry-all. And in the cutthroat street-style scene of 2017, it stood out. Big time. Though launched in 2013 to mixed reviews, the Ark bag played a huge part in the Instagram Influencer boom of 2017.  The bag translated especially well on Instagram—it looked like nothing else, and social media loves newness—and captured the moment. Soon, you couldn’t scroll for 30 seconds without double tapping a slightly overlit photo of someone celebrating their latest bag purchase online.

In hindsight, this It Bag marks the rise of the novelty purse. Shoppers wanted something distinctive to carry—and the Ark Bag delivered. “The half-moon shape and intricate bamboo slats echo the sun and the sun’s rays, which is a huge source of inspiration for our brand,” says Cult Gaia Founder Jasmin Larian Hekmat. “The bag’s design plays with light and shadow, adding to its architectural feel.” Since then, the bag has become something of a Cult Gaia signature. Though the original design put it on the map, you can now buy an Ark Bag in an array of colors, shades, materials, and shapes.

The It Factor: Nothing says summer fashion like a sun-dappled bag made of natural materials.

Jasquemus 2018 Handbag
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2018 – Jacquemus Chiquito Bag

Designer Simone Porte Jacquemus loves to play with proportion. He super-sized straw beach hats, honey-I-shrunk Princess Diana’s wedding dress, and sent a car-sized purse down the streets of Paris. But the Chiquito Bag started it all.

Teeny-tiny and colorful with a not-quite-to-scale handle, this Jacquemus design elicits squeals of delight rather than the usual ohs and ahs. Is it impractical? Maybe. But there’s a certain thrill that comes with carrying something this cute, and in 2018, everyone traded in their giant purses for itty-bitty delights.

The It Factor: Mini bags are standard fare in 2024, but the Jacquemus Chiquito deserves recognition for opening our eyes to the delight and possibility of undersized accessories.

Telfar 2019 Handbag
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2019 – Telfar Shopping Bag

It seemed that every Brooklyn It girl had her alarm set for Telfar releases in 2019. When a viral tweet dubbed the Telfar Shopping Bag the “Bushwick Birkin,” it was clear Telfar had officially arrived.

Was it the many celeb fans that put the brand over the edge? Or the machinations of a late 2010s fashion hype machine that buzzed around limited inventory and surprise drops? Despite having launched years earlier in 2014, Telfar Clemens’s distinctive vegan leather design—complete with sensible shoulder straps and a monogram “T” brand—became a household name.

Zoe Kravitz wearing green mini Telfar bag
Getty Images/ InStyle

The It Factor: Zoe Kravitz wore a green Telfar Shopping Bag, so I bought a green Telfar Shopping Bag.

Brandon Blackwood 2020 Handbag
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2020 – Brandon Blackwood ESR Tote

2020 was a dark year for fashion, but one bright spot was Brandon Blackwood. As Black Lives Matter protests popped up across the country, Blackwood created the “End Systemic Racism” tote in July 2020, with a plan to donate a portion of the proceeds to a legal assistance program. The style sold out two hours later.

“I wanted the shape to be as simplistic/relatable as possible,” says Blackwood of the ESR design. “The message was the star.” This tote was so much more than a bag; it was a statement. And one that reverberated across the industry at a time when it was sorely needed.

Today, the ESR tote’s message lives on, and the bag itself has become a symbol. After sunsetting the style, Blackwood has delivered accessory hit after hit, ranging from a croc-embossed, bubblegum-pink Kendrick Trunk (a viral take on the ladylike handbag) to a dapper navy Nia Bag (a medium-sized crossbody adorned with a gold “B”). No wonder his famous fans (ahem, Beyonce) continue to favor Blackwood’s sleek approach to glamour.

The It Factor: Both It Bag and “a tool to create conversation,” the ESR Tote’s message “still rings true today,” according to Blackwood.

Bottega 2021 Handbag
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2021 – Bottega Jodie

After announcing the appointment in 2018, fashion Instagram became obsessed with the “New Bottega” led by Daniel Lee. Merging his contemporary design philosophy with the brand’s history of craftsmanship and quality, Lee churned out viral hit after hit—including a signature shade of green—that put the storied fashion house back on everyone’s mind.

There’s perhaps no better example of this alchemy than Bottega Veneta’s Jodie Bag. Named for Jodie Foster (who was captured carrying a black version by paparazzi), the purse presented a fresh update on Bottega classics by combining the brand’s signature woven leather with modern design. Its slouchy-soft crescent moon shape and knotted leather handle won over legions of fans and created never-before-seen levels of social media hype.

The It Factor: Crafted in Italy from the softest Intrecciato leather, this handbag feels as good as it looks.

Luar 2022 Handbag
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2022 – Luar Ana

2022 was the year of Luar. Designer Laur Lopez had the hottest fashion (and most sought-after invite) in town, closing down NYFW with a party for the ages that brought Manhattan fashion people to Brooklyn in droves. The CFDA named him Accessory Designer of the Year—thanks in large part to the Ana Bag.

Beyonce wearing silver suit and holographic handbag
Getty Images/ InStyle

A charming little handbag, the Ana presents a world of possibilities. It includes a removable cross-body strap, sports endearingly oversized top handles, and comes in just about every color and finish imaginable.

Feeling iridescent? Luar has you covered. Shiny? Pick a color. Wild and wacky? A multicolored turquoise croc will do just fine. For every mood, there is a Luar Ana Bag. And every Luar Ana Bag is a big mood.

The It Factor: Only Laur could coax Cowboy Carter-era Beyonce to Bushwick. It was a moment.

LL Bean 2023 Handbag
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2023 – LL Bean Boat and Tote

In 2022, this bag became a meme. In 2023, it became a phenomenon. There’s a certain je ne sais quois about a cheerful beach staple embroidered with phrases like “no thanks” and “very busy.” Thus, the summer of the ironic Boat and Tote re-introduced the world to the perennial appeal of the L.L. Bean classic.

But demand for the Boat and Tote continued to skyrocket, growing by 31 percent in 2023, according to Amanda Hannah, L.L.Bean Head of External Communications and Brand Engagement. And it wasn’t just die-hard fans. An entirely new customer was discovering the preppy mainstay, wearing it not just on the boardwalk but on the streets of Brooklyn and even at New York Fashion Week.

The It Factor: Customization is queen here. Perhaps go for an embroidered tagline like “ludicrously capacious” or “unhinged” if you’re feeling frisky. There’s also no shame in sticking to the classic monogram. Irony is not included.

The Row 2024 Handbag
Vestiaire Collective / InStyle

2024 – The Row Margaux

This It Bag doesn’t shout. It whispers. Like everything at Olsen twin-led label The Row, the Margaux Bag presents a materials-first vision of luxury. The choice of sumptuous calfskin leather or buttery suede would delight any minimalist acolyte, but it’s the details that put this purse in the hall of fame.

This bag isn’t just adorned in leather, it’s lined in 100% calfskin. Belted side panels ensure it never loses form. The cleverly designed shape narrows at the top for comfortable shoulder wear. And its elegantly slim top handles draw no attention. If subtlety is an art, The Margaux is a masterpiece.

The It Factor: Fans like Jennifer Lawrence can’t get enough of the Margaux, and despite its top-of-the-mountain price point, neither can shoppers. This style is surprisingly hard to get your hands on, especially if you have a specific polished leather version in mind.

Hermes Birkin Bag, Louis Vuitton Speedy bag and Chanel 2.55
Hermes/ Chanel/ Louis Vuitton

Honorable Mentions

Some bags are so famous they don’t have an It moment; they’re always the moment. Take the Hermès Birkin Bag. Arguably the most famous bag in the world, it’s a household name that has remained an elusive, mythic status symbol for fashion lovers everywhere since it was released in 1984.

So, too, has the ubiquitous Chanel 2.55 maintained its popularity as a timeless handbag. It’s a classic for a reason, and you’re just as likely to find it worn on the streets of Paris in 2024 as when it was first born in 1955. The same thing goes for Louis Vuitton’s Speedy. Carried by both Audrey Hepburn and Paris Hilton, this bag transcends time as a perennial favorite since it first debuted as a compact travel alternative to Louis Vuitton trunks in the 1930s.

These honorable mentions have dominated the accessories world since InStyle’s first issue 30 years ago—and will no doubt continue their reign for decades in the future.

LL Bean Boat and Tote.Tina DiRosa

Kanwal Nijjar Sodhi

Kanwal Sodhi am The Creator Editor of ReviewFitHealth.com.

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