Brunello Cucinelli Spring Collection 2019

Brunello Cucinelli was in an upbeat mood at his Spring presentation today, and who can blame him? His company just celebrated its 40th anniversary with a grand event held in his native medieval village of Solomeo; in front of an audience of 500 international guests, he unveiled the completion of his lifelong project. He’d restored not only the town’s centuries-old historical sites but also the surroundings, formerly a desolate landscape of anonymous industrial settlements, now transformed into a green oasis of vineyards and orchards.

Cucinelli’s love for his Italian countryside roots was evident in the Spring collection. Titled Rustic Charm, it was an ode to natural ease and comfortable elegance—the label’s strongest style features. The lineup was given a cohesive look through the use of natural fibers like linen, hemp, silk, and cotton, and a color palette of earth tones, inspired by the soft hues of Italy’s Umbrian scenery. The unfussy silhouette was a balanced blend of masculine and feminine ingredients, another one of Cucinelli’s staples. The relaxed feel of soft-tailored, double-breasted blazers in houndstooth linen worn with high-waisted, paper-bag belted pants or with long ruched skirts was discreetly peppered by a glitzy dust of micro paillettes, glimmering also on the lapels of an elongated black tuxedo jacket or on hand-woven crocheted tops.

No matter how laid-back and serene the label’s style appears, there’s always a luxurious edge to it. The entrepreneur has his own rather clear ideas about the concept: “I think that the word ‘luxury’ today has lost its sense, though,” he rhapsodized. “For me, it’s always synonymous with excellence: supreme quality, perfect execution, and exquisite artisanal craftsmanship. You can’t always agree on matters of taste, but the quality level is just non-negotiable.” Then he added, “It’s also a non-negotiable today [to produce] fashion in the most ethical way possible, without being harmful or disrespectful towards people or the environment. In my opinion, democracy first and foremost rhymes with respect.”